I do not use figure 8's to belay people and would choose a munter instead. I use a steel 8 specifically when canyoneering in Zion since there is a ton of sand on the ropes and a standard Al device can take a lot of wear during one trip. In canyoneering figure 8's are also used for contingency anchors in lou of a munter mule due to the time savings during a single line rappel where the rigged 8 acts as a biner block. These devices include the petzl pirana, sterling ats, rich carlson's totem, and others which I am not familiar with like the fisk for work at height jobs. There are similar devices that offer varying friction options. This is especially true in high flow water canyons. Bottom line, use what you have been trained to use and are comfortable with this goes double for belaying since you're responsible for someone else.įigure 8's and similar rappel devices are used a lot in canyoneering because they are easy to rig and unclip while treading in a pool of water while wearing neoprene gloves. I have used one to rappel in a downpour (got caught on the wall) and it worked just fine. I have no experience caving or dealing with muddy/icy ropes, so I can't comment on those. I was very lucky and was able to get my feet planted, get some slack, and correct the configuration. I cross-loaded mine on the first rappel of a 3-pitch climb and my heart stopped when I noticed it 20 feet in. If you do not maintain tension in your set-up during the rappel, you must be cognizant of this. Used correctly it actually gets enough friction that it can be difficult to release after catching a fall. It is not "best" to feed the rope through the small hole - that is the ONLY way to use it as a belay device as specifically shown in the instructions. The figure 8, and again BD super 8 in particular are a fantastic belay device IF USED PROPERLY. Figure 8's dissipate heat from a rappel extremely well, too, due to a large surface area. If you reverse the feed and the brake-hand side of the rope comes out toward you, you will get an epic rat's nest of a rope to deal with. It will NOT kink your ropes, at all, if you feed it as shown in the BD instructions linked below (such that your hand is out in front of the device). Rappelling on a figure 8 is ridiculously smooth. Pros: Affordable Good friction control thanks to built-in teeth Easy to learn how.
#Set up atc belay device manual
To add some clarity to a couple of statements made above: In the affordable and basic manual tube-style belay device category, the ATC-XP is our favorite. That being said, they aren't for everyone. I learned to climb years ago on a figure 8 and have never felt the need to switch to an ATC.
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